Portugal | Lisbon — September, 2024

I departed Vancouver for a conference in Lisbon, landing in late September after routing through Toronto. The timing worked out perfectly to arrive a day early, something I was grateful for almost immediately. I stayed with a colleague in Belém, a neighbourhood that felt slightly removed from the centre, quieter and more residential, with the river always close by.

After navigating the apartment and a particularly stubborn front door with what felt like five separate locks, I dropped my bags and headed out. Just steps away sat the Museu Nacional dos Coches (National Coach Museum), home to one of the largest collections of royal ceremonial carriages in the world. The scale and detail of the collection was striking. Gilded interiors, elaborate carvings, and centuries of craftsmanship all preserved in one place. It felt like an unexpectedly strong way to ease into the city after a long flight.

From there, I walked deeper into Belém. The first landmark to come into view was the equestrian statue of Afonso de Albuquerque, standing prominently near the riverfront beside the museum. Nearby sat the pink façade of the Palácio de Belém (Belém Palace), the official residence of the President of Portugal. Not long after, I reached the expansive Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (Jerónimos Monastery), its intricate stonework glowing softly in the afternoon light.

A stop for pastéis de nata at Pastéis de Belém felt non negotiable. Warm, flaky, and dusted lightly with cinnamon, they lived up to every expectation. Later in the afternoon, a ceremonial guard march took place outside the presidential palace, the Guarda Nacional Republicana changing of the guard, adding an unexpected sense of rhythm and formality to the day. With jet lag beginning to settle in, an early dinner followed before heading back to the apartment for a much needed night of rest.

The next morning started slowly. With my colleague not arriving until later that evening, I took the opportunity to explore the Jardim Botânico Tropical (Tropical Botanical Garden), tucked just behind the presidential grounds. The gardens were lush and slightly overgrown in places, filled with winding paths, tiled water features, and shaded corners where local cats drifted quietly through the space. Surrounding buildings carried layers of Portuguese history, ornate façades, soft colours, and architectural details that rewarded slow wandering.

The sun began to fade in the late afternoon, and I made my way back to the apartment to greet my colleague. Dinner followed nearby, and the evening closed early again, a decision that made the days ahead far more manageable. Arriving early had already proven its worth.

The conference days unfolded steadily. Time was split between sessions during the day and early evening, and late nights in Lisbon with post conference meals, events, and drinks. One afternoon included a visit connected to the loss of a dear friend and colleague, a difficult moment and part of the reason for being in Lisbon.

After four days, space opened up to explore more of the city. We wandered through the old quarters of Alfama and Baixa, passing through the expansive Praça do Comércio (Commerce Square), framed by the grand Arco da Rua Augusta (Rua Augusta Arch). Riding the Elevador de Santa Justa (Santa Justa Lift) offered elevated views back across tiled rooftops and narrow streets, Lisbon unfolding in layers below.

Time was spent again the following day along the riverfront, including walking past the Monument to the Discoveries before reaching the Torre de Belém (Belém Tower), its stone walls rising directly from the water. From there, the city pulled uphill toward the Castelo de São Jorge (St. George’s Castle). Sunset from the ramparts stretched across red roofs and out toward the river, the light softening the city into something momentarily still. Dinner that evening ended with a surprisingly good paella, enjoyed slowly after days that had finally begun to ease.

Breakfast the following morning came with final goodbyes. Bags were packed, routines reversed, and soon it was time to leave Lisbon behind. A flight east awaited, carrying me onward to Vienna and the next chapter of the journey.

Lisbon left a lasting impression. A city layered with history, softened by light, and best experienced at a measured pace. Arriving early allowed the city to unfold gently, making space for rest, reflection, and moments that might otherwise have been rushed past.